in-cosmetics Global: naturalness and upcycling as recovery ingredients
As determined as they are to meet the crucial traceability needs mentioned in brand marketing content, suppliers continue to focus their efforts on finding natural ingredients.
From a fruit species cultivated and harvested by hand in Reunion according to the principles of zero waste, Gatteditch developed the new Solastemis active whose molecules are extracted from chayote, also called christophine. Solastemis promotes protection against photoaging by preserving keratinocyte DNA from UVA-induced damage.
Green technology have used sustainably hand-picked yellow gentian roots in France to develop the Myralis active, which targets problems around the eyes, upper eyelids, valley of tears, dark circles and puffiness.
Robertet presented their range of natural active ingredients for nutricosmetics and cosmetics, including key ingredients Lipowheatsource of phytoceramides, and Keranat, a millet extract that prevents hair loss. It was also an opportunity for the Grasse-based company to highlight the Actiscent range, playing on the olfactory duality and the physiological properties of the perfumer’s natural raw materials. These active scents can provide firming benefits, such as ActiScent Aqua Cristeor fortifying virtues, such as ActiScent Belle Fleur.
Create meaning with upcycling
Beyond naturalness, upcyling seems increasingly desirable as a proven way to prevent the waste of resources and energy.
Cosmo Perfume developed the golden berry natural ingredient made from the dried calyx of physalis, a fruit from an ethical Colombian farm. “It is a very common fruit eaten in South America. Its envelope had not yet been exploited. Consumers certainly need authentic rhetoric. Today, they want natural products, but they want them to come from traceable supply chains with well-identified producers,explains Alexandrine Demachy, Managing Director France. Extracted with supercritical CO2, this ingredient offers anti-aging cosmetic properties as well as floral and fruity notes for perfumes.
Eurofragrance was inspired by wood to develop its first captive. The Barcelona-based composition company presented The Soul of the Wood, which is obtained from shavings of a particular essence. L’Âme du Bois aims to create high-end perfumes in all categories: fine perfumery, home care and personal care. “It is an innovative ingredient with many facets, it seems to act as a link between all kinds of wood,says senior perfumer Angéline Leporini-Poubeau.
As for Lucas Meyer FIFthey valorized the by-products of perfumery to create the Wastar collection from residues resulting from the extraction of natural olfactory compounds from the LMR Naturals by IFF range. At the show, they introduced pink peppers, with Wastar Pink Baywhich soothes scalp irritation, helps reduce redness, and calms itching, but also lavender, with Lavender Wastarwhich protects skin from indoor pollution by strengthening skin barrier function, reducing inflammation and improving skin radiance for a radiant, healthy appearance.
Mibelle has also produced a new active ingredient resulting from upcycling: SLVR CafeCoffee Silver Peel Extract, is a by-product from roasting coffee beans that moisturizes and comforts dry skin.
Restore the skin to its natural beauty
Directly inspired by the holistic beauty trend, the radiance of the skin and its ability to reflect the joy of life and health is a recurring theme in the search for cosmetic ingredients.
Solabia associated with two new natural active ingredients related to this problem. Marine light enhances radiance with an eye contour action on dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles and crow’s feet. This new certified organic ingredient is rich in sulphated arabinogalactans exclusively contained in the fragile algae Codium and harvested in a sustainable way on the Portuguese coast. It reactivates microcirculation to provide cells with optimal nutrition and reinforces elasticity for a global anti-aging action and a brighter look.
Made from kale, a super detox food grown in an organic cooperative in Brittany, the Neoluminous the plant-based active ingredient offers a gentle organic exfoliation suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Combined with a generous amount of isothiocyanates, this exfoliating effect boosts cell metabolism necessary for skin detoxification and epidermal renewal. Neoglow provides an overall revitalizing effect.
Also relying on the ability of living organisms to repair themselves, Silab launch it Regenerate natural anti-aging active ingredient of biotechnological origin. Due to its global action, Regenixir promotes the regeneration of mature skin.
No water, no alcohol
Solid cosmetics, in powder, without rinsing, substitution by floral waters… all these approaches meet the great current expectations related to the preservation of water. Solabia submit this question to Box without water which offers various face, body and hair care solutions formulated accordingly, using only two teaspoons of water for the eight products presented.
Recognized specialist in the natural fragrance segment, Fragrant Expressions presented their CoNat range of perfumes intended for the organic market. Technological innovation Touch Natco now makes it possible to offer a solid version of these natural fragrances.
Moreover, the AquaBoost NatCo the technology developed three years ago to substitute alcohol for water in perfumes is now available for natural perfumes, which are known to be more difficult to dissolve. This patented technique consists of diluting a concentrated natural perfume at a concentration of 30% in water for a final dose of 10% in the perfume. With this aqueous base, the final Cosmos-certified result offers an estimated olfactory intensity of 93% after 4 hours and 85% after 24 hours.