TiL and Francis Kurkdjian create a perfume with objectified soothing effects

The virtues of linden go well beyond evening herbal tea. After a rewarding experience in the beauty industry, Sylvie Polette and her sister Odile revived their childhood memories bathed in the smell of lime trees in their family estate in the Dordogne to develop a complete range of self-care products that pay homage to this age-old tree.

We wanted to explore the physiological and holistic properties of this tree, so evocative of happiness. We discovered that this plant was in the Pharmacopoeia for its antispasmodic and detoxifying properties for the liver and kidneys. With the team from the Greentech laboratory who carried out the chemical and biochemical analyses, we discovered that linden was also very rich in hydrating, soothing and antioxidant molecules, which makes it a very complete anti-aging ingredient. And then there is this smell, the facets of which are closely linked to the popular emotional unconscious. But it is little used by perfumers. This tree is good for the skin, the body and the spirit,says the co-founder of the brand.

Based on these new data, the development of the brand has been driven by a global approach including cosmetics, food supplements and eau de toilette.

A composition by Francis Kurkdjian

The Water that Entwines perfume is an enveloping white floral scent close to orange blossom, with musky and honeyed notes.

The lime tree is a silent flower. Francis Kurkdjian has done an extraordinary olfactory job. We told him the story of our estate in the Dordogne, our childhood memories, the well-being we felt, and all the product environment we wanted to create. He wanted to create a contemporary lime tree, luminous, very luminous – the most delicate and authentic writing possible and evoking a picnic under the trees on a summer Sunday,explains the co-founder.

The perfumer also worked on each cosmetic galenic form based on this story, with different facets for each product.

A protocol to measure the impact on emotions

Just as they had objectified their skincare formulas, the founders wanted to scientifically evaluate the emotional impact of their perfume, moved as they were by the public’s enthusiasm. Real action has been demonstrated based on a measurement protocol developed and performed by neuroscientists Francis Vial and Arnaud Aubertfrom the Emospin company specializing in the study of emotions.

The protocol was based on the analysis of the different components of emotions through verbalization, the emotional charge created by the voice, the words used, the tone, but also the breathing rate…

We cross verbal and non-verbal methods which, combined by an algorithm, make it possible to quantify the hedonic potential of the experience, by characterizing the emotion felt by the subjects when they discover the perfume,explains Francis Vial.

Three key words were expressed by the 22 women consulted as part of the study: joy, peace and comfort. “Comfort had never been linked to a scent in a study,says Sylvie Polette.

What was very interesting with this perfume is that the results did not really vary from one individual to another, it is the lowest variability ever observed. With perfumes, there is always someone who says “I don’t like that”. Indeed, according to the many memory dimensions, but also sensory, psychological, or genetic, there are things to which we will hardly respond, and we will even be on the defensive. Here, on the contrary, this perfume obtains optimal acceptance, there is even a kind of craze for it,adds the neuroscientist.

Water that Entwines is soft; there is something intimate in that: it becomes top scores for fun and relaxationwhich confirms the power of olfaction on the emotional state – if it were needed.

Launched in September 2021, TiL is available on the brand’s e-shop, til-time.com, as well as on the Beauty Success network. It should open to the European market in 2023.

Donovan B. Sanford